Street trends have always influenced fashion designers. In this post, I will explore past trends and introduce two new ones that are influencing collections today.
1. Zoot Suit
Popular in the 1930s and 40s, this look consisted of a long jacket with wide lapels and padded shoulders paired with high waisted wide leg trousers that fit tightly around the ankle. The suit was especially popular among African Americans, Italian Americans, and Mexican Americans during this time.
Boys wearing zoot suits at a dance, 1942
Dancing in Zoot suit, 1942
The images below reflect the influence of zoot suits in contemporary fashion. The looks by John Galliano and Comme des Garcon's scream zoot suit; the wide padded shoulders on the jacket and the exaggerated leg that narrows as it reaches the ankle, are characteristics of this street trend. Anne Valerie Hash's jacket is also influenced by the suit, the long jacket with wide shoulders is clearly influenced by the 1930s-40s trend.
John Galliano, S02 RTW
Comme des Garcons, menswear F06 RTW
Anne Valerie Hash, F09 RTW
2. Teddy Boys
The teddy boy subculture started in London in the 1950s and spread to America and became associated with the rock and roll music. The teddy boy look was popular among the youth; it was a sharp/hip trend that made dressing fashionable acceptable for men. Typical of the teddy boy look are long jackets, collars with trim, lapels colored differently from the primary jacket fabric, rolled up pants exposing colored socks, and stylized hair.
The teddy boy look still influences fashion designers today. In the Anne Valerie Hash look below, you can see traces of this trend. The pants are narrow at the ankle and the jacket resembles a man's tailored coat. Costume National and Phillip Lim were also inspired by this 1950s look. The cropped pant leg exposing the sock underneath was common among the "teddy boys" of the 1950s.
Anne Valerie Hash,
Costume National, S06 RTW
3.1 Phillip Lim, F08 RTW
3. Beatniks
The beatniks were part of a literary movement which celebrated non-conformity and encouraged creativity. They are commonly thought of as Bohemian because of their style of dress and beliefs. The "beat generation" refers to the beatniks of the 1950s and early 60s. The clothing typical of a beatnik was dark in color, and was accessorized with black sunglasses and a hat.
Beatniks at a protest
Beatniks in Paris, 1963
BCBG Max Azria, F06 RTW (somber colors, and knitted hat typical of beatniks)
Betsey Johnson's interpretation of the beatniks. The dark clothing, sunglasses, and hat (not to mention the runway entrance) make this look beat inspired.
4. Mod
Mod fashion was a street trend that originated in London in the late 1950s. It's original title, "Modernist," explains clearly what the movement represented; it was a liberating time, especially for women. Commonly associated with this movement is Mary Quant. Her mini skirts were seen as both liberating and offensive. However, mini dresses and skirts prevailed and are still heavily present on runways today. Other characteristics of Mod fashion include simple lines, futuristics shapes, and bold prints/colors.
1. Zoot Suit
Popular in the 1930s and 40s, this look consisted of a long jacket with wide lapels and padded shoulders paired with high waisted wide leg trousers that fit tightly around the ankle. The suit was especially popular among African Americans, Italian Americans, and Mexican Americans during this time.
Boys wearing zoot suits at a dance, 1942
Dancing in Zoot suit, 1942
The images below reflect the influence of zoot suits in contemporary fashion. The looks by John Galliano and Comme des Garcon's scream zoot suit; the wide padded shoulders on the jacket and the exaggerated leg that narrows as it reaches the ankle, are characteristics of this street trend. Anne Valerie Hash's jacket is also influenced by the suit, the long jacket with wide shoulders is clearly influenced by the 1930s-40s trend.
John Galliano, S02 RTW
Comme des Garcons, menswear F06 RTW
Anne Valerie Hash, F09 RTW
2. Teddy Boys
The teddy boy subculture started in London in the 1950s and spread to America and became associated with the rock and roll music. The teddy boy look was popular among the youth; it was a sharp/hip trend that made dressing fashionable acceptable for men. Typical of the teddy boy look are long jackets, collars with trim, lapels colored differently from the primary jacket fabric, rolled up pants exposing colored socks, and stylized hair.
The teddy boy look still influences fashion designers today. In the Anne Valerie Hash look below, you can see traces of this trend. The pants are narrow at the ankle and the jacket resembles a man's tailored coat. Costume National and Phillip Lim were also inspired by this 1950s look. The cropped pant leg exposing the sock underneath was common among the "teddy boys" of the 1950s.
Anne Valerie Hash,
Costume National, S06 RTW
3.1 Phillip Lim, F08 RTW
3. Beatniks
The beatniks were part of a literary movement which celebrated non-conformity and encouraged creativity. They are commonly thought of as Bohemian because of their style of dress and beliefs. The "beat generation" refers to the beatniks of the 1950s and early 60s. The clothing typical of a beatnik was dark in color, and was accessorized with black sunglasses and a hat.
Beatniks at a protest
Beatniks in Paris, 1963
BCBG Max Azria, F06 RTW (somber colors, and knitted hat typical of beatniks)
Betsey Johnson's interpretation of the beatniks. The dark clothing, sunglasses, and hat (not to mention the runway entrance) make this look beat inspired.
4. Mod
Mod fashion was a street trend that originated in London in the late 1950s. It's original title, "Modernist," explains clearly what the movement represented; it was a liberating time, especially for women. Commonly associated with this movement is Mary Quant. Her mini skirts were seen as both liberating and offensive. However, mini dresses and skirts prevailed and are still heavily present on runways today. Other characteristics of Mod fashion include simple lines, futuristics shapes, and bold prints/colors.
Mary Quant, 1960s
Twiggy, fashion model and style icon
The clothing in the images below are considered Mod because the shapes, clean lines, and length of the garments are representative of the fashion during this time.
Balenciaga, Resort 2010
Balenciaga, Resort 2010
Mod fashion, 2008
5. Hippies
The hippie street trend began in the United States in the 1960s. The subculture which popularized the hippie look was the free spirited youth living in the Haight Ashbury section of San Francisco. As the subculture grew in membership, the hippie style of dress spread across the country and world. The hippie movement grew out of the beat generation, it was about rejecting conformity, living free, and living peacefully. The hippie style of dress reflected its cause, the garments tended to be less constrictive and prints were "happy" and floral. This is the style of dress that is most commonly associated with this time.
Gucci incorporates the hippie look with a loose fitting design, bold print, and flower shaped hardware below. Imitation of Christ was inspired by the wide leg jeans made popular by the hippies.
Gucci, Resort 2009
Imitation of Christ, S06
6. Disco
Disco fashion became popular during the 1970s as disco clubs ruled the nightlife. Looks during this time tended to be as flashy as the disco ball; men's and women's garments were tight fitting and glamorous. The jumpsuit for women became popular during this time.
Disco, 1970s
Spandex jumpsuits, 1970s
Luca Luca attempts to revive the 1970s jumpsuit by giving it subtle sex appeal. Margiela adds disco glam to his men's suit by adding sparkle to the lapels.
Luca Luca, S08
Maison Martin Margiela, S09
7. Punk
The punk subculture formed in the UK in the late 1970s. Punk fashion represents the heavy metal of the punk rock music genre. Ripped clothing, colored hair, wild hairstyles, military boots, piercings and tatoos, plaid prints/weave, metal hardware (belts, etc..), leather, and black garments are all charateristics of the punk look.
Punks at Kings Crooss train station, London 1985
Below are fashion designers interpretations of the punk trend for the runway. Both images show ripped garments, incorporate leather, and are almost completely black.
Jeremy Laing, S09 RTW
Rodarte, S09 RTW
8. Hip Hop
Hip hop street fashion has influenced designers since the 1980s. It is a street trend made popular by music artists and fans. Currently, hip hop trends from the 80s are making there way back on the runway; sneakers are being paired with suits, bright colors are being used, graffiti is influencing prints, and other accessories such as hats, jewelry, have a hip hop feel.
Rapper LL Cool J
Hip Hop group RunDMC (made Adidas sneakers extremely popular)
In the images below it is clear both Chanel and Dsquared were influenced by the hip hop street trend. Both looks incorporate accessories typical of hip hop fashion from the 1980s-today.
Chanel, 1989.
DSquared, S09 RTW
New Trends
New Trends
1. Techo Fashion
We are living in a very techo savy world with advances in technology occuring rapidly. Experimenting with LED lighting and creating garments that have interactive qualities is becoming popular. It is not surprising that high fashion designers would want to explore this innovative trend too. Below are some examples:
Willy Bogner, 2007
Hussein Chalayan, "Laser Dress," 2008
Swararski and Hussein Chalayn, LED dress Japan 2007
2. Graffiti Shoes
DIY graffiti sneakers are gaining popularity as a street trend. The graffiti shoe allows you to personalize your accessories. There are many mediums you can use to decoracte your shoe; the sharpie ads came to mind when I thought about this trend (now there are small sharpies to fit in your pocket so you can design whereever you are). Nike is even selling spray paint for their sneakers, so you can customize them yourself! High end designers are recognizing this trend and are beginning to incorporate the DIY look into their shoe prints.
Louis Vuitton graffiti sneaker
