Sunday, July 19, 2009

The Influence of Historical & Artistic Styles on Fashion

1. Pop Art




















The artwork above was created by Pop Artist, Roy Lichtenstein. This bright, colorful, and fun style of art was popular in the late 1950s and throughout the 1960s. Other famous Pop Artists include: Andy Warhol, Richard Hamilton, Claes Oldenburg, and Tom Wesselmann (among others). The images below shows a suit created by designer Franco Moshchino for his Cheap and Chic line. The label took one of Lichtenstein's prints (similar to the one above) and created a graphic garment; wearable Pop Art. Other translations of Pop Art are seen in collections where bright colors and everyday objects produce prints and statements.
Jean Charles de Castelbajas, Spring 2009 RTW

2. Art Deco
Tamara de Lempicka, Self Portrait, 1925

Chrysler Building, 1930

Art Deco was a artistic style prominent in the mid 1920s and throughout the 1930s. It is most noticeable in the architecture of the time; the Chrysler building is an example of this. The geometric and decorative stylization's of Art Deco architecture translated to the fashions of the time. In the images below, the shapes and patterns of the garments reflect this style.

Paul Poiret, 1920s

Sonia Delaunay (artist/designer) , Paris 1925 Exhibition
(Notice the geometric patterns on jackets, similar to pattern on top of Chrysler Building)

3. Surrealism
Salvidor Dali, Lobster Telephone, 1936

Surrealism was a art movement which began in 1924. The Surrealists aimed to change the way people perceived reality. They achieved this by creating art that brought our unconscious alive. There was no reason or logic to the art, the Surrealists made the familiar unfamiliar and incorporated strange juxtapositions in their work. Surrealist artist, Salvador Dali is famous for these odd creations and caught the eye of fashion designer Elsa Schiaparelli. The two collaborated on projects such as the lobster and skeleton dresses (below). Schiaparelli incorporated Surrealist ideas into her own designs as well. The "heel hat" below is an example of taking something familiar and using it in an unfamiliar way.

Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937
Elsa Schiaparelli, "Skeleton Dress"


Elsa Schiaparelli, 1937

4. Art Nouveau

Alphonso Mucha
Interior by Victor Horta, Brussels 1893

Art Nouveau was an international art movement lasting from the late 1880s until WWI. The organic and fluid style of Nouveau artists is easily recognizable in the architecture, interior design, and paintings during this time. Artists of this movement believed strongly in the expressive properties of form, line, and color. Art Nouveau continues to influence artists today, below are fashion images from Prada's 2008 Spring collection. These silk printed garments have the same organic shapes and expressive color of the artwork shown in the images above.

Prada, Spring 2008 RTW

Prada, Spring 2008 RTW

5. Italian Renaissance Art


Michelangelo, ceiling of the Sistine Chapel (1508-1512)

Italian Renaissance dress, 1557

The Italian Renaissance spanned from the end of the 14th century to 1600. The period was known for its cultural achievements and the rebirth of humanism after the Medieval years. The subject matter of Renaissance art included religion, mythology, and history. The fashion images below reflect inspiration from this period. In Eli Saab's cloud gown, the print resembles the background of Michelangelo's work on the ceiling of the Sistine Chapel. The Christian Lacroix renaissance inspired gold dress is an interpretation of the fashion of the time. The off the shoulder ornate dress resembles the gown in the artwork above.
Eli Saab, Fall 2008 Couture

Christian Lacroix, Fall 2006 Couture

6. Medieval Art
Canterbury Cathedral, 1400

Bath Abbey, England

Crusade Art: English fighting the French in the Battle of Auray, 1346

The Middle Ages, also known as the Medieval period, is commonly dated from the 5th century to the beginning of the 16th century. The Catholic Church was the main influence on society during the Medieval period. The church dictated the routines of daily life and impacted the laws of the time. During this period the Gothic style of art was popular. Churches during the Middle Ages were constructed in the Gothic style, high pointed arches, religious statues, and stained glass windows are elements of these buildings. The look below from Jean Paul Gaultier's spring 2007 Couture show was inspired by this type of art. By incorporating the stained glass print and accessorizing the dress with an exaggerated headpiece, the outfit resembles the period.

Another type of art popular during the later part of this period was Crusade Art. Stella McCartney's dress below reminds me of this style. Wearing the symbol of your country or King was typical of military dress of the time.
Jean Paul Gaultier, Couture Spring 2007

Stella McCartney, Fall 2008 RTW

Wednesday, July 15, 2009

The Genealogy of Baseball Caps

The ancestry of baseball caps can be traced back to 1846 where it is said the first organized baseball game took place. The New York Knickerbockers proudly sported the full brimmed straw hats which would later evolve to the baseball cap we know and love today.

New York Knickerbockers 1846

In 1860, the Brooklyn Excelsior's wore the first official baseball cap along with a required uniform. In the image below, look to the far right: while the bill of the hat is still wide, the crown is defined and fitted. The baseball cap was developed to keep the sun and sweat out of the players eyes.
Brooklyn Excelsior's, 1860


The "No. 1" hat manufactured by Peck and Snyder, had a signature star on top of the crown. The cap was floppy, unstructured, and had a small bill.
New York Mutuals, late 1864


In 1888, Spalding published the "Spalding Baseball Guide of 1888." At this time there were various cap styles for players to choose from; it was up to the player to wear the hat that suited him best. These earlier styles are believed to be patterned after horse jockey and train conductor hats. For the most part, the bill of the hats were short, it was the crowns that varied most in shape.


In 1903, Spalding introduced the "Philadelphia Style" cap. The bill of this cap was completely stitched, giving the cap more stability. The stitched visor was a hit because it sustained its shape and lasted longer than previous hats.
Philadelphia Style hat, 1903

Introduced in the late 19th century, the "pillbox" cap made a come back in the early 1900s. This cap had a similar shape to the ones seen in Spaldings Guide of 1888. The cap was reinvented with a sturdier visor produced by the stitching.
Striped "pillbox style" cap, 1914

For additional structure, latex rubber stiffeners were inserted into the bill during the 1940s. With this innovation, the modern baseball cap was born. Another change to the baseball hat happened in the 1940s as well: 1945 marked the last year a baseball cap was worn without a team logo on the front of the crown.
During the 1960s, the unofficial dress code at baseball games relaxed and fans began sporting the same head gear as their favorite players on the field. The images below show the before and after:
Baseball fans, 1940s

Fans at 1960s World Series

In the 1990s, wearing your baseball cap backwards or to the side became a trend among the youth. Also introduced were baseball caps with unofficial team colors.


In 2007, Major League Baseball hat manufacturer, New Era, invented the 100% polyester baseball hat. The polyester material works better at keeping the wearers head dry. Also included in this new hat is a black sweat band which hides stains, and a black under visor which further reduces glare.
New Era 100% Polyester hat

As seen in recent years, baseball caps have become more than a symbol of loyalty to a favorite team/city. Nowadays, baseball caps are a fashion accessory, often having nothing to do with baseball at all (except for the shape of the hat). A big influence in the change of the baseball cap is the music scene. The bills of these "accessories" are wider and flatter, it is no longer imperative to have a perfectly curved visor.
Rapper Lil Wayne

Fashion hat

"Trucker" style hat

New Era "street style" hat

Tuesday, July 7, 2009

Historic Draped and Tailored Garments

Historic Draped Garments

1. The Statue of Liberty


The Statue of Liberty: Liberty Island, New York Harbor

The Statue of Liberty was a gift from France in 1886 to celebrate the centennial of the United States signing The Declaration of Independence. The statue depicts the ancient Roman goddess Liberta; a goddess of freedom from slavery, oppression, and tyranny. The goddess is dressed in a classic Roman stola, the drapery technique is clearly evident in the way the garment hangs.

2. Traditional Monk Garments


Buddha: Thailand, 10 – 11 century


The monk’s attire in the recent photo has similarities to the Buddha depicted from the 10-11 century. The traditional garment of a monk is made up of two large rectangular pieces of cloth: one wrapping around the waist and the other draped over the shoulders.
3. Indian Sari's


Indian Sari: 1847


A sari is a traditional garment worn by women in India. It is created from a large panel of unstitched cloth which can be draped over the body in various ways, creating numerous styles. The most common technique is for the sari to be wrapped around the waist with one end and draped over the shoulder with the remaining fabric.

Historic Tailored Garments

1. The New Look


Designer Jaques Fath and his models (New York, NY 1949)

Fitted waists with full skirts and tight fitted tops, was a popular look during the late 1940s-1950s. In order to achieve this custom fit, garments were tailored with darts, seams, and closures.

2. Tailored Coat




Inauguration of President John F. Kennedy: Washington DC, 1961

Jackie O is considered one of the great style icons of the 20th century. In the pictures above, she shows off her classic style with a tailored coat designed by Oleg Cassini. This fur trimmed coat is the feminine compliment to her husbands winter jacket on his inauguration day.

3. The 3 Piece Suit


“Dandy Look”: late 1700s, England.

The picture above exemplifies the classic “Dandy Look” of the late 18th century. This style of dress represents an early version of the modern three piece suit. Each part of this look is tailored to the wearer, giving off a sharp, sophisticated feel. A man by the name of Beau Brummell is credited with introducing this look by bringing the “swallow-tailed” coat onto the fashion scene.